The smell wafting from the pot decorated with edelweiss flowers is irresistible.

Alplermagronen — a Swiss mac ‘n’ cheese — layers potatoes and pasta with velvety cream and melted cheese from cows that graze the grassy pastures of the Alps.

The taste? Sensational.

The sights? Well, that really elevated the whole experience as we admired 360-degree views of snowy peaks, verdant slopes and, far below, sparkling Lake Lucerne.

The revolving restaurant at the top of the Stanserhorn mountain 1,900 meters above sea level is a Swiss institution.

We’d jumped aboard an open-topped wooden train, then a cutting-edge cable car to tuck into the specialty carb-fest.

And it was just the start of the culinary treats on our river cruise through Switzerland and Germany.

Riviera Travel’s eight-day Gastronomy of Switzerland and the Rhine had us discovering delicacies as we sailed 310 picturesque miles from Basel in Switzerland to Cologne on the MS Geoffrey Chaucer.

This luxury ship sleeps just 167 passengers in superb comfort.

It may be just five years old but the decor harks back to a glamorous era.

The marble-floored lobby is flooded with light from the atrium above, while polished hardwood, shining brass and sparkling copper ooze understated style.

Our first day on board, in beautiful Basel we were docked on the edge of France and Germany.

The city on the Swiss border gave us the rare chance to travel to three countries in the space of minutes.

We had some time to meet other guests — with one impressive solo traveler from Hemel Hempstead, Herts, aged 93.

The following morning we set off for Lucerne by coach, fueled by a hearty on board breakfast and fresh mountain air.

It was the first of ten experiences all included in the price of the cruise.

The stunning city boasts Europe’s oldest surviving wooden bridge and countless quaint streets to explore on foot.

The Jesuit Church proved among the most beautiful sights on the entire trip, with its breathtaking marble interior.

We didn’t have to wait long for our next culinary adventure.

Carving along the Rhine into Germany we dock at Breisach am Rhein — gateway to the Black Forest.

After lunch on board we take a coach through rolling hillsides of towering pines, rugged valleys and manicured vineyards, arriving at Lake Titisee to sample some authentic Black Forest gateau.

The layered chocolate cake, sandwiched by whipped cream and boozy cherries, was served alongside a coffee and schnapps.

The boat’s reliable lunchtime spreads had plenty of choice, including fresh soup and salads plus lots of local specialties.

There was a winning combination at the evening’s dinner — a Rhine-inspired pork schnitzel and Riesling.

We enjoyed a nightcap to the sounds of a performance from a Swiss violinist in the boat’s plush lounge bar.

And the gastronomic treats continued as we docked in Strasbourg, France on a culinary city tour.

Favorites included sizzling hot slices of Alsace specialty flammkuchen — a thin pizza dough covered in creme fraiche, thinly sliced onions and crispy bacon bits.

We stop off to sample local wines and cheeses plus fat slabs of kugelhopf cake as we explore the historic city, including its impressive Gothic cathedral.

A music quiz on the boat that night saw teams dancing away in the lounge.

After-dinner tipples are not an issue when everything is included in the price.

After a solid night’s sleep I awoke to us docked in Mannheim, Germany, and got stuck into eggs Benedict for breakfast.

Belt buckles loosened

The spacious rooms — cleaned twice daily — provided a cool haven to relax in when needed, with wonderful views of the surrounding countryside from the juliette balcony windows.

Mannheim was also the location of one of the trip’s most surprising experiences.

Donning brown cloaks, we are taken on a candlelit tour of the cellars at the Weinessiggut Doktorenhof vinegar distillery in nearby Venningen.

Who would ever think that a vinegar tasting would turn into a culinary exploration of the senses?

Our interest piqued by powerful flavors, we enjoyed pairing chocolates and crackers with top-shelf vinegar.

Alsace-style coq au vin was served once we arrived back at the Geoffrey Chaucer, followed by another luminous Riesling.

There was plenty of time to relax on board the next day and I took advantage of a $38 massage by the ship’s therapist.

We set out to explore stunning Rüdesheim, taking a cable car over vineyards to a stunning vantage spot at the top.

On our descent we had time for a Rüdesheim Coffee, a mix of Asbach Uralt brandy and sugar cubes and cream.

The ship then sailed for Koblenz passing through the Rhine Gorge and the 430ft-high Loreley Rock.

Onion soup and fillet steak were on the menu for the captain’s dinner, which everyone dressed up for.

A folkloric show featuring an oompah band and a series of wine, schnapps and brandy ended the night on a jovial note.

On the seventh morning we sailed for Cologne for a tour of the Lindt Factory and the city’s towering cathedral.

Bratwurst, currywurst and delicious German bread were aplenty in the city — and a beer at roughly five euros didn’t break the bank.

Our culinary adventure through Switzerland and Germany ended all too soon.

We flew home with belt buckles loosened after all the indulgence — but with memories worth every inch on the waist.

The Sun  UK